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TRAVEL

DON HEADS:

VOLCANIC GEOLOGY

Words & Photography by Kylie Bell
V2 - Don Heads 2024 (IMG_6288) Watermarked (Kylie Bell Photography)-min.jpg

Basalt left as though sculpted from lava (Central North Coast, Tasmania)  Photograph by Kylie Bell

Many have observed that the soil and geology of the central north coast of Tasmania may have been once volcanic. From Dove Lake – perhaps an ancient volcanic crater in itself - at Cradle Mountain, sitting quietly behind the region in the Central Highlands, down across the undulating farmland of the cradle coast region, lies Don Heads on the scenic coastline near Devonport. Surrounding this unique geological site is the undulating farmland that is famous for its rich, red basalt soil. 

On arrival to Don Heads, when standing and looking down at the peculiar hexagonal and columnar formations of basalt on the edge of Bass Strait, many would feel within them that the theory and research had to be true; that this region was once formed from ancient volcanic activity and subsequent years of erosion and weathering. 

Hexagonal, Columnar Basalt at Don Heads (Central North Coast, Tasmania)  Photograph by Kylie Bell

The lie of the land behind rises up to a hilly landmass that curves and concaves in and out from the sea, in a curvaceous rhythm with the Bass Strait; forming a series of small coves between the mouth of the Don River and Lillico Strait where the little penguins' nest between the months of September through to May, during their breeding season. It’s perhaps one of the most special and unique natural attractions to visit on this section of the coastline. Above, large irrigators water the fields of fresh produce during the summer months, whilst unbeknownst to many passing traveller, at the feet of this beautiful headland, lie the phenomenon of the hexagonal, columnar basalt geology and jointing. It is much like a smaller version of one of Ireland’s most famous natural attractions, drawing visitors from all around the world, Giants Causeway. Only our version, on the opposite side of the globe is made up of its own collection of hexagonal columnar basalt and coinciding organic sculpted boulders. Within the rock, it is said that even small crystals of olivine are found. Geologically significant, Don Heads is also home to Tasmanian wildlife, birdlife and sea life, relying on the stunning coastal fauna and flora.  

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Don Heads (Central North Coast, Tasmania)  Photograph by Kylie Bell

Research Illustrates that the repetition and formation of the hexagonal basalt, interlinked together in a pleasing and repetitive pattern that spans and forms the low-lying rocky outcrop around this headland, is a result of flows of Teritiary Period lava. The Teritiary Period refers to 66 million years prior to our existence today. As visitors meander across one hexagonal stone to the next, when low tide grants you this opportunity, the rocks gradually step down into the sea; with the pull and push of the tide lapping against the hardened rock left above sea level. Peering out across the water mainland Australia hidden behind the horizon. It is believed in times gone by, when sea levels were lower, that this was once a land bridge. For thousands of years, the Aboriginal people would have travelled, on foot, to and from the great continent Tasmania’s refer to as mainland Australia. Today, the average depth of this stretch of water is around 60 meters.  

Unfortunately for those looking to explore this island at the bottom of the world today, they must climb aboard a ship or airplane. The good news is that a pair of twin passenger and vehicle vessels, the Spirit of Tasmania ships, dock just shy of 11 kilometers east on the next river flowing down to the coastline, to the port city of Devonport. 

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Come on the journey, as we explore our island state of Tasmania and beyond, through the medium of photography and travel stories. Lost Oar is my travel and photography journal, through which I hope to inspire you to seek out your adventure too. Lost Oar is fuelled by an insatiable passion for adventure travel, hiking, geology, and landscape photography.

 

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Champagne Falls 2020 - IMG_7674-2-min.jpg

CHAMPAGNE FALLS:

COUCH TRAVEL

INTO TASMANIA'S

WILDERNESS BELLY

Hexagonal Basalt (Central North Coast, Tasmania)  Photograph by Kylie Bell

In one area, as you amble to the bend of the headland, more organic in their form, almost polar opposite to that of the hexagonal stones polygons, yet sitting alongside and on top, is basalt that appears the very result of flowing lava. Unless I have not travelled enough in Tasmania, I have not yet seen anything like it.  These are sculptured forms as though indeed lava left them standing here at this particular point; leaving fertile, iron-rich basalt soils behind me, otherwise known as Ferrosols, also a result of the lava flows and the volcanic history, making this one of Tasmania’s richest agricultural regions. The basalt here is otherwise known as ‘aphanitic extrusive igneous rock’ formed from high temperatures between 1,100 and 1,250 celsius, followed by cooling. As you will see at Don Heads, it has a rather deep dark grey, charcoal-like color, contrasted against the lime green and yellow shades of the vegetation that climb the slopes of Don Heads. 

Further along the coastline, towards the Far North West, also sits an ancient volcanic plug jutting out into the sea, known as The Nut at Stanley. In fact, the diversity in geology along the entire North West Coast, from Don Heads to the Nut, is well worth taking the time to explore across multiple days, and makes a very memorable and scenic drive.

KANGAROO ISLANDS

PECULIAR REMARKABLE

ROCKS

Remarkable Rocks Kangaroo Island (IMG_3302) Watermarked (Kylie Bell Photography)-min.jpg

Columnar Basalt at Don Heads (Central North Coast, Tasmania)  Photograph by Kylie Bell

Alongside the uniqueness and beauty of Don Head’s is the history of its first people, prior to the arrival of the British during the 1840’s. For the Punnilerpanner people, this region was their home. The richness of this area included good sources of food. Land-roaming mammals, shorebirds, fish and abalone were some of these food sources. The shores stretching inland were heavily wooded, with a series of rivers along the North West coastline feeding spring water across the land. Don Heads sits on the edge of the mouth of one of these; the Don River. The basalt rich soils, fused with the rivers water source, is reflected in the lush vegetation and Tasmanian native bush land. Later, on the arrival of the British and other colonists, this was gradually harvested and milled. One of these sawmills was located only a little way back up the Don River at the small village of Don; serviced for a time at one point by tramway, which was then later extended down to the wharf established on the western side of the river. Here the timber was then shipped to Launceston, Australia’s third-establish town and Tasmania’s second largest city today, and the new settlement of Melbourne across the horizon, founded in 1835.  

Following the timber milling, leaving open fields, the early pioneers then turned to the till, to farm the rich basalt soils, which visitors will observe is still the primary occupation of the region today in the modern era. For locals, it is known as Tasmania’s food bowl region. In recent years the coast has seen a flourishing of farm-to-plate, agritourism experiences alongside the agricultural industry, which can be explored through the Tasmanian Tasting Trail visitor guide.   

 

In conclusion, there is no doubt that Don Heads is one of the intriguing and unique geological and natural sites to visit on the North West of Tasmania; only a stones throwaway from the rapidly growing and transforming coastal city of Devonport and the home of the Spirit of Tasmania vessels. 

For those planning a visit to Don Heads it is best visited at low tide. From the car park, meander north-west across the basalt to experience the best aspects of this unique geological site. 

Don Heads Headland Walk (Central North Coast, Tasmania)  Photograph by Kylie Bell

Remarkable Rocks Kangaroo Island (IMG_3302) Watermarked (Kylie Bell Photography)-min.jpg
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TASMANIA'S CENTRAL

NORTH COAST REGION

DEVONPORT'S

ELEVATED WALKWAY

Champagne Falls 2020 - IMG_7674-2-min.jpg

CHAMPAGNE FALLS:

COUCH TRAVEL

INTO TASMANIA'S

WILDERNESS BELLY

KANGAROO ISLANDS

PECULIAR REMARKABLE

ROCKS

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